Kandersteg stepping in to another world!

Not to skip over any detail, or incident, that occurred at the garage once we got there, but basically a very nice man decided to come to our rescue. Providing us with an additional Panda to continue on the journey with, this time in the form of a hire car, rather than a crew member. We will have to literally and physically revisit this site, and o so lovely swiss garage on a few occasions yet, so like I said we will come back to it. 

Cramming ourselves and a lot less kit in to this little Panda was not easy, but without a thought for comfort and with the wind back in our sails we were all excited to head up this tight, twisting mountain pass. The road before us lay out this time not like a venomous snake coiled and ready, more a inviting helter-skelter ride, racing, and rounding as it ascended the mountain. We were soon enough climbing high again, fresh mountain air thinning and purifying with every rounded corner, impressive looming grey faces standing above us, like guardians to this slightly secret place. 

The road to Kandersteg is not like any I have travelled before, not through its lack of scale, or impressiveness. But more for the rusty old train, carts like something from an era gone by just waiting for their next cargo of cars and people to be whisked away and transported through this mighty rock, on the Lothchberg line, and back to another time, a magical scene of swiss mountains and wooden huts that wouldn't be lost in a disney movie. Driving on to that train I had no idea just what to expect on the the other side, but I was charmed and delighted by the sheer essence of this place. A little hidden gem

nestled in this high mountain pass at 1,174 m, with a population of just over 1300. This historic hamlet that has existed in some form since the bronze age, and formed part of an important pass, and rest stop, for the romans allowing trade with Italy. Driving slowly over these slippery roads, surrounded by iconic swiss lodges, cliffs, and ice falls, snow as deep as cars in places, the locals seemingly dressed from the 1900's, and more people on touring skis than you could shake a ski pole at. How could I not be intrigued and taken in by this place? 

We were staying at the equally historic Kandersteg International Scout Centre. The Centre began in 1923 with Lord Baden-Powell, who, after the first World Scout Jamboree, had a dream about a place where all Scouts from all over the world could meet, "The Permanent Mini Jamboree". After our epic previous 24 hours and a night in the van, this place was almost a dream come true. Hot showers, space to lie down, and a kitchen!! Overjoyed at the prospect of a shower and a bed is not an understatement. Time enough to dump our stuff, a quick shower, and back to the task at hand, making a film and getting some climbing done. 

Pete was keen to hit up the guides office and take a drive, scout out a frozen waterfall he had in mind for climbing. So back in the little panda we pilled and off again on our mission. After a little misdirection and a little searching we managed to get some advice on ice conditions, and the news wasn't good. Nothing was in condition down low, and the team if we were honest, which we were, didn't have enough experience throughout the group to attempt an epic. So after a drive, and a look at some falls in the distance it was decided that a plan B, C, G, who knows what letter we were up to by now, had to be formed. My knee was bad and I wasn't gonna survive a big walk in, or at least I was going to slow the group to much, so it was decided over a slightly, discounted, dinner that a shoot was on at Pink Panther, a mixed ice and tooling spot, I would send the crew with Pete while I stayed back and rested a dodgy knee. 

We spent a couple of nights in this amazing little place, and while the boys were away I explored the town a little. It really was like being transported back in time, the locals for what reason I am still not sure explained to me they were all in traditional swiss dress, there were horse draw carts, ice skating on the local pond, skirts and petticoats flailing in the wind as woman skated round mittened hands crossed together. All to soon the boys had got a little bit of climbing in, Dale and Ben had captured some great stuff for the film, and we had to make that inevitable phone call to the garage. Just how bad was it going to be? We had just left it with the guy, he seemed to think he could fix it....Just how bad could it be, really?  

The Long 24 Hours

....... Sitting quietly in the back, my European strength painkillers helping me float down the switchbacks of Switzerland. The sense of achievement after a a good day shooting, my companions growing ever closer, the bond of friendship palpable in the air!

Awaking from my hazy dream like state there was definitely something in the air, an acrid foul smell, this wasn't the sweet smell of friendship, what the hell was it? Conversation quickly snapping back to reality as we all quickly come to the same realisation, that is not a good smell at all! Maybe an engine smell? Dale quickly explains he has been playing he-man all the way down the mountain, the steering comparable to a days hard labour at every turn. By the growing odour, and the growing concern in our voices, we soon realise this could be big trouble, pulling off the highway before the engine leaves us like our earlier windscreen wiper!

Now not to say any of us aren't mechanically minded, but the usual five men one car problem debates quickly ensued. Decision made lets get it somewhere lighter and safer, maybe with signs of human inhabitants, then we can continue or analytic debate and discussion of problems and options.

Finding a little diner, caravan park in the process of closing with some outside lights this had to be the place to solve this new challenge! A little engine inspection, dirty hands, dirty mouth comments, and a whole load of opinion and roadside expertise, contributed by the whole group, a few options were thrown down for serious further discussion:

• Drive back to France (A lot of km's)
• Stay here for the night 
• Drive on with faith and hope in our hearts
• Hitch to a garage and get some power steering fluid 
• Drink beer and have another cigarette 

In the end with a rather firm veto by me on driving back to France, we settled on / combined a few options, firstly beer and cigarettes to take the edge off what in all honesty had been the most friendly tense stand offs, I have ever been in. After a quick attempt at hitching and a chat with some locals it was decided this was us for the night. Five guys all our gear, no space, frayed tempers, a few more beers, a missing ariel from the quad copter (again), what will forever go down as a cosy 45 minute sleep...less said the better. 

Fresh as a flogged horse I was up and about, if nothing more to just get out the van, grabbing my reliably tired hippy, we were off, to find garages and rescue the situation. It was 7.30 am, all solved by lunch time we joked. We hiked, hitched, bus rode, and walked about 21km before we managed talk to some angels, who helped us talk to a mechanic, on a saturday in Switzerland, no easy task I am telling you. For our efforts and resilience we were rewarded with the news that, just about three km in the other direction from where we broke down, was a garage! O how we laughed! I joke but for two guys with no sleep we kinda enjoyed the whole experience, even meeting a lovely local in a beat up banger who helped us with the last 10km or so back to ground zero. 

So with a little hopeful hopeful spirit, a quarter wind at best in our sails, an a little prayer we fired her up, ad braved this alleged 3km. Just three kilometres laid out before us, like a winding black serpent, penned in by high passes, just waiting coiled to strike any stricken traveller. Onwards to Kandersteg!

Carrosserie Gabot

One of the many many things I love about life on the road is the unexpected. The unexpected places that appear around every corner, the unexpected situations you never imagined you would find yourself in, the unexpected friendships you forge, the unexpected challenges you face and overcome, the unexpected delight you find in simple moments, the unexpected reflection, and my favourite unexpected.... the unexpected beauty that shines from the people you meet. 

Saas Fee Ice Climbing World Cup, Car Parks and Ice Climbing?

Goodbye France hello Switzerland, driving out of Chamonix we were all talking of how sad we were to be leaving, as we climbed higher in to the mountains thoughts soon turned to swiss chocolate pyramids, purple cows, fondue and maybe even some ice climbing. As soon as we crossed the border we were winding down the switch backs, endless views unfolding before us, the hills were certainly alive with the sound of music,  a mix of the cinematic overtones of Jonsi and laughter. 

As we descended our way to the valley floor, and were guided forward by the looming hills either side of us, our prehistoric map disintegrating in my hands with every fold and slight breeze, we knew we had to be on the right track. A quick stop to try the little German I know, a handy phrase usefull for most

  situations,"Ich bin ein Schlumpf ", and to

confirm our suspicions that indeed we were

on the right road to Saas Fee. Before we 

knew it old faithful Beatnick, our van and 

home, was climbing hills that soon turned 

in to steep sided mountains, the architecture

becoming more classically swiss, still no 

purple cows though.The excitement 

growing every second, verbalised by our 

quad copter pilot Dale, who literally at one 

point going a little crazy with excitement. 

Soon we arrived in Saas Fee the venue for 

Pete's first climb as a GB team member, 

now at first it seemed to be just a car park

with a stylish multi-storey car park beautifully set in the mountains. 

Not your classic swiss mountain town. Once we parked up and 

realised this was not just a car park but our home for the next few 

nights, we left the van behind we set off to explore the town. 

Nestled behind this multi storey car park we were delighted to find

a dream toy town, a proper ski town, no cars, log cabins left right 

and centre, shops and cafes adorning the fairy lit high street as 

snow gently fell in the background. 

After a coffee, a little organisation, a quick hunt for a cuckoo clock,
getting Pete to the right place, and signing the crew up for press
passes for the next day, we decided to explore the what can only be 
described as sculpture like structure, adorning the inside of the 
spiralling car ramp. A mix of granite, ice and wood, formed to  test
willing climbers. This was like abstract visual pornography 
to us, the film makers and 
photographers, with man made 
access to every level and angle. So 
with a certain amount of excitement 
brewing we decided to try get some
sleep.

We knew tonight was going to be 
cold and, was probably going to be 
a test of our will power. So with a 
certain looming horror of our first 
night outside in the tent, so Pete 
could grab some sleep the night 
before the comp, we set up the tent 
high in the mountains, surrounded 
by snow capped peaks hidden
 in the night sky.

I would love to tell you the romantic dream continued through the 
night, the mountain god gently singing to us as we slept. 
Unfortunately the truth was a little further from that, we did indeed 
sleep considerably well in the sub zero temperatures, partly due to 
the seventeen layers of clothing, my four season sleeping bag, 
a couple of pain killers for my gammy knee, and probably no doubt,
in part, to the single malt whisky Ben had cleverly stashed in his 
hip flask earlier. That was until the mountain gods got bored and 
decided to whip up a ten minute storm not only outside our tent, but
inside it, and amazingly all the way in to my sleeping bag and 
clothes. Yes, at this point I did almost scream like a girl and woke 
up simultaneously, with Dale in a what could be referred to as a 
flap and panic. The old blizzard in a tent 5.45 wake up call, nothing 
like it! 

We managed to get back to sleep and quickly eight o'clock rolled
around, I decided as chief Panda to provide nourishment, rather 
CHFing expensive nourishment at that, croissants and coffee for me
and the athlete, and a croissant each for the boys to lift spirits. 
Well I am only mentioning this because, as a man with a bad knee 
in and icy town what could go wrong? Yup well this is one occasion
I kinda wish someone did get on camera, coming back to the car 
park, down a reasonable incline for a hobbler, I lost both feet in a 
rather comedy fashion, and of course after the price of these gold 
plated, titanium swiss coffees and croissants, I was not going to 
spill them. And yes there were witnesses to the event so it wasn't 
completely wasted, if a hobbling cripple falls on ice and there are 
people there to see it, they do indeed make a sound, and that sound 
people is laughter. 

After a tasty breakfast in the van it was time

our first competition experience, as we 

arrived at the venue there was already an 
atmosphere of excitement growing. Round 1

for the day was going to be speed climbing, 

Pete and and a few other members of the 

had entered this, now there was no 

expectations as most of them had never been 

speed ice climbing before, a whole different 

ball game, and a completely different

technique. What I would describe as a mix of 

skill and frantic arms and legs, whirling and

working hard, these machine of men flying up 

a ice face in literally seconds. 

Whilst the boys did amazing, and 

to be honest I think surprised themselves and all of us with their 

performance, this round mostly went to the Russians, with a high 

percentage of places in the finals going to the eastern quarter. There 

was no disappointment here just smiles and giggles at the 

experience. We had time now for a little fun with the quad-copter, 

and grab some cut aways for the film of this picturesque town. 

Before we knew it Pete was off to isolation and the qualifiers 

started, great music, commentary, a willing crowd cheering on the 

athletes, and to top it off displays of climbing beyond anything I 

have seen before. Grunts, groans, and god like effort helping get 

some climbers to the top, but as a rule most climbers did not 

complete the course, proving more difficult thank many of them 

and us had anticipated. While the GB team didn't place highly in

this round, it was clear to see they all enjoyed the experience, and 

with positive attitudes, 

and smiles, they all 

looked upon this as a 

great opportunity to 

learn and develop for 

the next round. Again 

there was a level of 

eastern dominance 

here. 

Now as for the crew, we 

all definitely enjoyed the experience, we did a lot dancing and

jigging to keep the chill out our bones, our Lowerpro's working

hard to keep the chill and frost of our camera gear, and on review

of some of the footage it was clear to see some of us suffered in 

arctic like conditions, more than a little camera shake caused by 

vibrating bones and bitter cold. Now the round was over, and a pan

of pasta cooked in melted snow was on the boil, spirits warmed

through the decision was made to leave for Kandersteg, or possibly 

just somewhere lower in the valley to increase our outside 

accommodation by a couple of degrees. Who knew this may prove 

to be a fateful decision.........

Abandonner McFish

No, Abandonner Mc Fish, seems to be the message and metaphor for tonight and maybe the last few days. First of all I would like to apologise for the lack of posts recently, but there has been a series of unfortunate and challenging events that have cropped up and needed some focus and attention. 

Its hard to know where to begin really, since leaving Chamonix we have attended the Ice Climbing World Cup, broken down, slept in the van again, had an indoor-ish snow storm, hiked for numerous miles to find all garages in Switzerland close on Saturdays, been to  one of the most beautiful towns I have seen, or been in a long in a long time Kandersteg, retrieved the supposedly fixed car, had a car fire, returned to Chamonix and much much more. A trip of adulation, enjoyment, companionship, lows, highs, friendships blossoming and strengthening, adversity, triumph, luck and bad luck, adventures unexpected, fun and laughter all wrapped in to what is only nine days so far. 


We are now on car number three, well hire car two, the van is in Switzerland with half our gear and were in France!! We are still on the road to the second round of the Ice Climbing World Cup where Pete is due to climb on Friday, and believe me he is going to get there, it is more a question of what we do next about the van and getting back to England. There is a phrase about lemons and lemonade I think would probably work here, but maybe I will just say for now when you come across an adventure and adversity, you just have to get in the saddle and ride, no matter how tough it seems, a smile and a good outlook on life will get you further than a bitter cup of lemonade. Life is about opportunity and what you take from it, and trust me this trip is already offering us all a lot, not just adventure but personal insight an experience we may never have had without all the trials that we have managed to laugh in the face of. I am privileged to be with the people I am, and happy to be exploring the world and my ideas again, it has challenged me as a person and I cant wait to see what happens next. Keep your eyes peeled for the next few posts, they will be a little back dated but I have been keeping notes and pictures, lets hope I find a few hours to catch myself up in the next few days, fingers crossed. 

Chamonix, The Zoo, and Old Knees

Arriving in the Chamonix valley, winding our way in to the French Alps, our newly fixed and  hard working wiper keeping the road ahead in sight, snow gently falling in the head lights, we were all pretty weary after a long journey. While we couldn’t see the surrounding mountains due to the darkness, it was obvious we had arrived at a higher altitude by the crisp fresh air, and increasing drop in temperature. Even the prospect of being here had already helped lift our spirits, hunger looming Pete had our first destination in mind, Midnight Express, a local burger joint on the high street, I had been promised this would rival any burger I had ever tasted, a lot to live up to. Let me tell you I have had some good burgers on my travels!

Making our way down Chamonix’s main street snow bunnies, and seasonaires awash, I was reminded of my past and time in the mountains, reminiscing down this snowy memory lane, as great as it was I was starving and was soon snapped back in to reality by the tempting smell, emanating from the little shack pumping out good old trance music, I have to say it was a tasty burger, but I am not sure it beats Ferg Burger in Queenstown NZ. Now we also had a little problem by here, this was supposed our first night outside and under the stars, but our man in the know Pete had a plan, unfortunately the camp spot he had in mind was now a ski slope! Luckily a good friend of his called Leanne offered us an amazing place to stay, warm beds, showers and new friends to be made, Indie the adventure dog, and as there always is in ski resorts a whole bunch of ozzies enjoying the snow.

The next morning / afternoon after catching up with some sleep we were all feeling a little fresher and ready to get our adventure officially started, making plans and discussing options we decided it was time to get out the ice axes, dust of the climbing gear and head to The Zoo, one of Chamonix premier dry tooling spots for our first official shoot as part of the project. Due to fading light, and the extra long lie in a few of the team had, this was going to be a night shoot.

As we packed our bags and charged our batteries you could see the Panda’s getting more excited, mirrored by the growing enthusiasm of our two climbers. Throwing all the gear in the trusty van we head down the valley away from Chamonix town, with a quick pit stop at a super market to grab some fuel for the body and mind, we soon arrived in the middle of nowhere pulling up alongside a pile of wood. Pete reliably informing us that it was a short twenty-ish minute walk up the hill, as we unpacked the van we were greeted by what may have at first appeared to be savage dogs, barking and howling, eyes glowing in our head torches like a scene from resident evil.

At first this seemed to be the biggest challenge it soon became apparent that there were other obstacles to overcome, namely finding The Zoo in the dark! 

Well we tramped around up and down hills like The Grand Old Duke of York’s men, eventually splitting in to teams, howling like wolves to communicate in the dark, this was the first sign of trouble with my old knee, but we will come back to that in a minute. After the young guns failed to find our destination it fell to this old fella to have a wander in the woods, well yep send an old cripple to do a boys job and yes it will get done, a quick ten minute hunt and a holla to Pete, we managed to find what we were looking for.

An amazing wall slightly overhung, dripping down on the forest below, but offering us shelter and inviting us in to play. As Jack and Pete got there gear together, the Panda crew got their toys out, Ben setting up the crane, Dale getting out his genie, not to make wishes, but to help dreams come true with awesome night lapsing skills. There is so much I could say about this place but you will just have to wait and see when the film comes out, spoilers after all. Now after all this hiking around and slipping in the mud and leaves, we were pretty tuckered out and honestly ready for bed.

The next morning I was awake before the crew, and with a little glimpse out the window I was invigorated by the super sunshine revealing the majestic mountains, with a skip in my step I was out of bed and ready to take on the day, I grabbed Indie and we headed out for a quick stroll in the sun, I say stroll but it was more of a limp / hobble. For the first time in a long time I felt invigorated, the mountains taking there effect on me, inspiring and humbling, reminding me of my insignificance in the bigger picture, helping me put perspective on just bout everything I have going on right now. I don’t know what it is but the mountains seem to have a magical effect on me, drawing me in and bringing me out all at the same time.

Once I returned from my bimble in the snow with my new friend Indie the dog, I chatted and relaxed with the ozzies, soon joined by the boys. Now we all were keen to do something, but the day was already passing, we all had a few whisky nightcaps the night before so we decided that maybe it was time to check out town and maybe check out my knee in a more professional manner, rather than a curious sideshow. A trip in to town ended in beers and burgers, I mean it was happy hour at Monkey Bar after all. After some debate we decided I best go see the doc and get his opinion on my knee as a unusual bruising had started to develop, now this in itself was a challenge with my pigeon french and his broken english, we finally came to an agreement that it was not looking good and I should probably get, as he put it, a pregnant lady scan, I think he really meant ultrasound, but I like the way he put it so I am adopting it as my own.

While I was glad of the advice and the prescription for some pain killers and a proper knee brace, this soon proved to be an expensive endeavor, and could indeed prove to be yet further costly. On the up side I was enticed in to a back room by two lovely pharmacists who asked me to take my trouser off, I did for a moment wonder what was in store! It was to my relief, or disappointment, I am not sure, it was just a fitting for a new knee brace. Finally and with a sense of relief, I now had a professional medical opinion and we were back on track.

Back to the chalet we had work to do, time for more toys, Dale flying his quad, slider shots and cuts aways checked off, just tine for one more night shot in Chamonix high street, this was as always when filming in public spaces drew a lot of attention but made us feel like rock stars, even though the truth couldn’t really be further from it, with Pete’s modest attitude to his natural talent and athleticism. Our last night in Chamonix, for now, rounded off with a beer and sharing of stories you could really start to feel the group gelling, and working as a team. One last sleep in a warm chalet before the prospect of our first real night in sub zero temperatures, and it was time for the see you later, chows, and goodbyes, back in the van and headed for Switzerland, we were sad to say goodbye, but knew we would be back in a few days after our trip to Saas Fee for the Ice Climbing World Cup. 

Late Nights at The Zoo

Without giving to much away and ruining the next instalment of the Panda adventures here is a little shot from last nights shoot at The Zoo, Chamonix.